The Patient, and the Diagnosis The toilet in question is a Caroma dual-flush slimline at the one at the house I live in, a frequently used one. When I did this, I saw water was flowing where shown in the picture above! Can't use harsh cleaning agents though, will damage the new seal, vinegar works ok. Update 1 Two weeks later, the replaced valve is working very nicely. It took about 45 minutes to remove all the old parts and install all the new parts including tank bolts. But what is the issue? I got a Caroma-branded washer that came with instructions. The final steps are to reassemble the flush pipe fascia, and then re-install the seat and cover on the cistern, which are simply the reverse of dismantling them.
Applying some pressure not so much as to crack the tabs using a flat bladed driver should allow you to wriggle the central unit upwards and out of the cistern. The design of this valve is different to the Caroma valve, and after fitting, we discovered it would not fill at all. If I turn the water supply back on the water will keep filling the tank since the water keep leaking to the pan. I live off grid and rely on rainwater from plastic tanks. The procedure is basically the same except the valve needs to be 30mm above the overflow line, rather than 25mm , and the fix was accomplished without much hassle.
I suppose you can say, I took the easy way out, but it still solves the problem and it does it well. The repairer did not provide the one stop solution for this problem. Our 10-year-old Caroma suddenly wouldn't stop running not just trickling , and I determined that the fault was in the outflow. It is at this point, you unpack the new valve, read the instructions and set it up. Voila, there was a fault with the outlet valve.
Thank you for the clear instructions and photos. If the cistern keeps running into the pan after you flush then the under-water valve rubber needs replacing, which is in the centre below all the flushing mechanism and another task not for the inexperienced. Then, the water pipe nut has to be done up to the new valve, again, just a little above finger tightness to ensure a waterproof seal. Then, to avoid mess, you need to drain the cistern as completely as possible by doing a full flush and holding the button beyond where the valve automatically re-seats itself. Actually, hold on a sec. You could do without this, if you wish. But now i knew that where the main problem is.
You can as per before use hostapd on one Raspberry Pi to create a software based access point so that all your cameras can connect to it, and use the Rapsberry Pi to do the processing. The rear part of the central mechanism slots into tracks in the rear of the cistern — make sure to line it back up when you return the unit to place afterwards. We recently had this issue with our 2 toilets — both same model, same age, both started leaking into the pan. The first step to beginning the operation is to turn off the water to the cistern by rotating the stopcock fully clockwise. Thanks a lot It sounds like the seal that opens and closes when you flush is either stuffed or has something blocking it open.
Last time i have faced many problems which are related to the cistern flush. They are also slow, noisy and hissy. However, it just became apparent that a second, lesser-used toilet in the house of the same model has a busted inlet valve which has been slowly trickling into the pan as it overflows. Use your own brain, and think of what you are doing. Thanks for all the tips.
It has been working fine ever since. This did try to stop the valve earlier, but the valve was still quietly hissing away and slowly admitting more water until it eventually overtopped the overflow. I had a creaky old ballcock float valve equipped toilet that had been giving fits for years with noise, small water leaks and a flush valve. If there are, shut off immediately, and fix them! To cut a long story slightly shorter, if your Caroma has a small float mechanism tucked away on the right hand side of the cistern and no arm overhanging the flush mechanism, just ignore the float and get stuck into removing the flush mechanism. How to confirm the Outlet Valve is the problem Get a torch, and shine it into the hole in the middle. From the last time I did it years ago, I just peeled off the washer from the whole central assembly and stretched the new one onto the same plunger.
I twisted the nylon adjustment screw on the float arm to actuate the valve earlier and get a lower water level. Do not overtighten, or you will destroy the nut or crack the cistern. If the float has reached the top and the water still continues to flow and the adjustment screw does not help, or if the valve stem itself is leaking water from the top, it is likely that the washers and seals within the valve have failed and need to be replaced, or the valve has been serviced and not re-assembled correctly. From memory the seal is between a rubber ring and the base of the cistern. I knew it had to be fixed eventually, or it will eventually, spiral into a headache of water-waste and expensive water bills. Because this toilet has a fully covered design for aesthetic reasons, to get access to the bottom of the cistern requires removing the toilet seat. Another option is the at the same price.
It is a small piece of rubber that seals around the bottom of the cistern, which holds the water in the cistern until it is flushed. Completely different topic, was going to post something when I needed to get around to it as I recently replaced the valve before posting the blog. You want to replace the outlet valve. Depends on how the cameras are set up, but there is nothing inherent that says WiFi can only be one-to-one. If you want to save yourself the hassles of trying to work with pipe, then the easy way out is a quick-fit water connector. Then reassemble and refit the system.
Today I was able to fix with help from hubby removing the flush mechanism as I couldn't unclip it myself. You've just got to remove the central assembly and take off the old seal new seal looks like this, tho may be black rubber. If you reach the adjustment limit, then you should shorten the valve and try again. . There was so many fiddly plastic bits in the mechanism, plus the fact that when half flush was pressed, it did full flush anyway. If you are heading off to Bunnings to buy a new flush valve, ask for Item No: 9312232226167 or just print the picture below and bring it along! Part 93122 322 000 44 Cheers, Andrew Does anyone know eher you can get the button set that sits in the top of the cistern lid? Removed it all was a pea sized wad , put all back together and viola…fixed.