Does your car currently run? Okay, so right now the engine won't start. If the engine starts then I now know that I need to take a closer look at the fuel pump to see if it's fried or not. Non-starts and idling problems are likely to ensue if you don't replace the part right away. The 8pin plug will connect to the 7pin plug from what I remember. When the engine stalled and you had to pull over, did you try to restart immediately and have the no crank condition? Not every problem with an engine refusing to start is the same. Driving home the other night it just shut off as though I turned the car off.
I thought that the no click meant that the starter was not cranking. One method that I've used to test for a lack of fuel and the one you'll probably have to use is spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and then having a helper crank the engine. Testing it might rule it out. If you have questions just pm me. To remove the rotor, you need to do quick flicks of the ignition switch to position the rotor screw where it is accessible.
Other Causes of a no-Spark Engine There are three primary things that will keep the engine from getting a spark: A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter, and a bad distributor. Once we pushed it to a safe location we pulled a plug and watched for spark to discover there was none. Then you need to run a blue wire tach signal from the 2pin over to the blue rpm signal wire on the driver side strut tower. If there is battery voltage, proceed to step 4. Older distributors are made differently than newer ones and have breaker points and components that may wear out, leading to decreased performance and malfunction. The resistance should be about 0.
A bad ground alone could actually cause all of this. I just need to locate it. When the car stalled, at the Golden Gate Bridge, that was scary. Your next step is to verify fuel pressure. This adapter must have a 1. Important note: Listening for priming of the fuel pump and checking for spark must be done when the engine will not start. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F.
If you lack spark, definitely first check 15A fuse 9 in the dash fuse box. In addition, your method for checking spark is not very effective, so try the method I posted. A fuel pressure gauge can be connected to your 1. This is a pretty simple test. The car stalled out at a light then would not start up again.
Maybe I should also ask, what are those clicks I hear under the dash when all is well? Therefore, you need to go back to the basics. No listing of such a relay. But not to turning the key and getting nothing. The cool thing is that fuel pressure test gauges with the adapter needed to test the fuel pressure on Honda cars have come down in price a lot! Well, it wasn't I guess. If Voltage is present 12 Volts , then you have confirmed that the fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay are working perfectly. The fuel pressure test gauge is connected to one of the fuel filter's banjo bolts with a fuel pressure test adapter. Only thing you will need to get is a 2pin plug to add to your ex harness.
On that 2pin plug there will be a black wire. If the engine will start sometimes, then fuse 9 must be fine as you said. You can't use D-Series alternator. We replace the rotor cap the contact was a little burnt. If you can, that will rule out a bunch of possible causes of your problem.
Most fuel pumps will make a quiet hum to let you know they are working, but a loudly buzzing pump is often an indication that it's on the way out meaning it's producing far less fuel pressure than you need for the engine to run properly or it's dead but still receiving electrical current. We then had the ignition module tested and it test faulty, so we replaced it and still no spark. The distributor cap and rotor are infamous for causing no spark no start conditions. Also check the clutch switch for proper operation. We had the coil tested and it tested out just fine. Using any other method is not as accurate. I can hear the new fuel pump operating now.