Seems to blow when I accel from 0 to 20mph some short in some tranny switch? Check voltage at terminal No. Some dealers offer rebuilt exchange on the distributors. You can usually feel the wear-lateral movement in the distributor shaft-with the distributor removed from the engine. I didn't notice the caution about disconnecting the plug into the control unit, but it appears that I wasn't the first one to disconnect the plug. Hopefully the attached pictures are of some help! Any advice on what next.
I work for Hewlett-Packard as a Proliant specialist. You may want to remove the wiper arm at this point, held by two Torx size 20 screws, allowing you to more easily see a very small hole, looking down from the top. Connect measuring unit to adapter 60-pin connector. Yellow Wire: 12 volts Constant Is the factory radio still in the car? Once you get the screws off, just pop the old switch off and the new one on and replace both wire and screws. Cleaning the heat-transfer face and applying a thin film is good maintenance every year or two. After a bit, I tried starting the car again and it fired right up.
If you are going to remove the distributor for any reason, carefully scribe a mark to return it to its exact former position so as not to change the timing the holes in the distributor are slotted. Sometimes while im driving the car it will stall out the engine will knock like it ran out of gas and the car will turn off. Also check wiring between terminals No. It is really not a difficult job. Now turn the ignition on, then off; there should be no change and voltage should remain at 12 volts. The voltage should go away.
I had 11 volts at the 2 terminal on the control unit. This is because your timing is set at 12 before and only advances past that i. You should find at least one wire carrying 12 volts at all times. Connect voltmeter between measuring unit terminals No. If continuity is not present, check connectors and wiring. Problem solved in under two hours.
Attachments Thank you very much for the prompt reply. Here are the basic instructions- ignore the bits about the parts you are not changing. Ignition Coil Failure and Testing. Whether it was due to dirty internal contacts or oxydation on the mating surfaces I really don't know. This seal is simply a metric seal, 12mm X 20mm X 5mm. A bad coil has nothing to do with a 'no crank' situation, you have two seperate problems.
If it blows I still have the distributor from the 86 engine with the unbroken connector. Remove the two 10mm distributor plate bolts. See other in Engine Performance. While the distributor is off check the 'housing' carefully. Use antiseize paste on the aluminum body of the distributor, just a fine film will do. If battery voltage is present, go to next step.
This is akin to putting a horse shoe onto an a hard boiled egg, possible but very nerve wracking. If both hoses are open, pressure regulator is defective. Check for this whenever removing the distributor. The main support to the column is four very long bolts up into the dash. The illustration to the right shows the Rex-Regina system components. If resistance is infinite, check for intermittent open in wire between terminal No.
Also essential are a mirror, a lamp or flashlight, and a magnet to retrieve the inevitable dropped screw. You may have to reposition the engine pulley with a short burst of the starter to find the notch on the rear lip of the pulley. Battery voltage should be present. Try turning to position 2 with your screwdriver, press the button and see if it will come out. If no spark is present, check whether coil or plug is faulty. You should get a very low reading around. You will want to set your timing at 12 degrees before top dead center.
Verify the operation of the throttle switch. Replacing this paste as a preventive maintenance act can keep the power stage in good shape. Replace spark plugs as necessary. I got one a year ago. Bosch coils seem exceptionally robust in service. On an 89 it is not an expensive proposition because there's no hall effect sensor on the distributor. Disconnect the 3-pole connector from the distributor.
If frequency is not 8-10 Hz, go to next step. If leads are intact, replace knock sensor. You may be short-circuiting it somehow by connecting that wire, I am not sure. Once you have four screws in your hands, lower the tilt wheel and carefully pull the top cover off. See For 75-90 inspect and clean the 25A blade fuse on the fender by the coil, fuse 4, and the holders. They must have been removed at some point. There is some argument as to the importance of cleaning up the pack-to-chassis interface, but I do it just to be a good boy, besides, you're there anyway.